In his book “How Not to Age,” Michael Greger, M.D., delves into the secrets of preventing skin aging.
Traditionally, the gold standard for skin protection has been the use of sunscreens during the day and retinoids at night. Retinoids, a form of topical vitamin A, have been extensively studied and proven to improve skin appearance. However, there’s a catch – topical tretinoin, a prescription-only retinoid, has been linked to increased mortality rates. A randomized controlled trial had to be halted prematurely due to significantly higher mortality rates among those using tretinoin compared to a placebo cream. While the debate rages on about the potential dangers of tretinoin, the compound remains banned in Europe for cosmetic purposes.
So, what alternatives do we have? Topical niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, has emerged as a promising anti-aging ingredient. Studies have shown that niacinamide can reduce yellowing, wrinkling, blotchiness, and dark spots in aging skin, including reducing crow’s feet wrinkles around the eyes. Similarly, topical vitamin C has demonstrated improvements in wrinkles, sallowness, and skin tone. However, vitamin C’s instability in creams limits its efficacy, leading to the use of stable vitamin C derivatives in skincare products. Yet, these derivatives may not offer the same benefits due to poor absorption and minimal conversion to the active form.
But here’s the good news – Dr. Greger says that you can create your own skincare solutions at a fraction of the cost. Dr. Greger suggests making a DIY vitamin C solution by simply buying ascorbic acid in bulk and mixing three grams into 30 grams of water, at a cost of about a nickel per ounce (30 ml). He says to drip a few drops into the palm of your hand and use your fingertips to apply it over your face, neck, and upper chest daily. (Just don’t get it in your eyes.)
Similarly, Dr. Gregor says that bulk purchases of niacinamide offer substantial savings, allowing you to customize your skincare routine affordably. He says to take 1.4g of niacinamide and mix it with 1oz of face cream Dr. Greger says to apply a pea-sized amount to each side of your face once daily. By embracing these cost-effective alternatives, you can take charge of your skincare regimen without breaking the bank.
To make a DIY topical ointment with niacinamide, you’ll need niacinamide powder and a suitable Unscented moisturizing cream or lotion. Here’s a simple recipe:
Ingredients:
- Niacinamide powder
- Unscented moisturizing cream or lotion
Instructions:
- Measure out 1.4g of niacinamide powder. The recommended concentration is typically between 2% to 5% for skincare formulations.
- In a clean container, add the niacinamide powder to 1oz of Unscented moisturizing cream or lotion.
- Mix well with a clean spoon or spatula until the niacinamide is evenly distributed throughout the Unscented moisturizing cream or lotion.
- Store the ointment in a sealed container in a cool, dark place to preserve its potency.
- Apply a small amount of the ointment to clean, dry skin as part of your daily skincare routine. To help prevent contamination to your cream, use a clean applicator each time. I like to use an airless pump container that helps to prevents oxidation, extends the shelf life of your cosmetic and skincare products, and keeps them fresh and effective for longer.
Remember to perform a patch test before using the ointment on larger areas of your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately.
To make a DIY topical ointment with ascorbic acid powder (vitamin C), follow these steps:
Ingredients:
- ascorbic acid powder (also known as vitamin C powder)
- Distilled water
- Aloe vera gel or Unscented moisturizing cream or lotion
Instructions:
- Start by measuring out three grams of ascorbic acid powder. The recommended concentration typically ranges from 5% to 20% for skincare formulations.
- In a clean container, mix the ascorbic acid powder with an equal amount of distilled water. Stir well until the powder is fully dissolved. This creates a vitamin C solution.
- If using Aloe vera gel as the base, mix the vitamin C solution with the aloe vera gel in a clean container. Alternatively, if using a Unscented moisturizing cream or lotion, combine the vitamin C solution with the Unscented moisturizing cream or lotion instead.
- Mix all the ingredients thoroughly until well combined.
- Transfer the DIY ointment into a clean, airtight container for storage.
- Store the ointment in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life and preserve the potency of the vitamin C. I like to use an airless pump container that helps to prevents oxidation, extends the shelf life of your cosmetic and skincare products, and keeps them fresh and effective for longer.
- Apply a small amount of the ointment to clean, dry skin as part of your daily skincare routine, focusing on areas of concern such as dark spots, uneven skin tone, or fine lines.
As with any skincare product, perform a patch test before using the ointment on larger areas of your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. Additionally, vitamin C can be sensitive to light and air, so store the ointment in a dark, airtight container to maintain its effectiveness.
Of course, the one crucial tip standing out above the rest: avoid the sun. It might sound simple, but exposure to sunlight can account for up to 90 percent of visible skin aging, making sun protection paramount. Dermatologists unanimously agree that shielding your skin from the sun is the most effective way to slow down the signs of aging.
In addition you will want to test each ingredient separately, on a small patch, to determine your skin’s reaction. Then proceeding with a degree of caution if you have sensitive skin to either one or both.
While the skincare industry offers a plethora of products promising youthful skin, the key lies in simple yet effective measures like sun protection and the use of evidence-based ingredients. With knowledge and savvy, you can maintain radiant skin without emptying your wallet. Be Strong, Be Well and Be Green!🌱
Dr. Gregor’s Book How Not To Age
What are your favorite skincare tips for combating sun damage and aging? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
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